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TENDERFrance · Duxelles, 1650s

The Everything Mushroom Spoon

The single most useful thing in this book. Finely chopped mushrooms cooked down to a dark, savory paste. Spoon it over anything.

A piece of toast topped with a savory mushroom mixture held in a hand.

TENDER · The mushroom is cooked soft, simmered or braised, no crisp.

Where it comes from

Duxelles, created in the 1600s by the French cook Francois Pierre La Varenne. For nearly four hundred years it has been the quiet secret folded into pastries, sauces, and toasts. Ours uses olive oil in place of butter and loses nothing. Coconut oil also gives a nice sweetness that pairs well with nutmeg and savory tones.

Makes about one cup. Keeps five days.

What you need
  • 8 oz Oyster or Lion's Mane mushrooms, very finely chopped
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 shallots, minced
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • Leaves from 2 sprigs thyme
  • 2 tbsp dry white wine or sherry
  • 1 tbsp lemon juice
  • 1 tbsp parsley, chopped
  • sprinkle of nutmeg, not enough to taste but enough to accent
  • Salt and black pepper
How to make it
  1. 01

    Chop the mushrooms almost to a mince. A few pulses in a food processor works, but do not turn them to mush unless you want more of a puree spread than small chunks.

  2. 02

    Heat a wide pan over medium high, add mushrooms and cook, stirring now and then, until they begin to release their water, about 4 minutes.

  3. 03

    Add oil, shallots, and garlic. Cook until soft, about 3 minutes.

  4. 04

    Add seasonings and wine. Let the wine cook away, about a minute.

  5. 05

    Off the heat, stir in parsley and season well. It should taste deep and concentrated. Top with more fresh chopped parsley

Serve it with
  • Tossed with hot pasta and a splash of pasta water.
  • Spread on grilled sourdough with lemon.
  • Spooned into warm corn tortillas with avocado.
  • Folded into rice or risotto at the end.
Cook's note

Add a teaspoon of white miso with the wine for even more depth. I like to add extra wine for a deep rich flavor.

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