Oyster Mushroom Tacos
Oyster mushrooms stewed down with onion, garlic, toasted guajillo, and a lift of lime. The taco filling sold from stalls in Mexico City, and it is glorious.
SEARED · The mushroom keeps its bite. Chewy, meaty, crisp at the edges.
In the markets around Mexico City, food stalls called fondas serve cazuelas of stewed mushrooms with fresh corn tortillas. Setas, oyster mushrooms, are the traditional choice. Epazote is the classic herb, but cilantro stands in easily.
Serves three to four. Makes about 12 tacos.
- 1 lb Oyster mushrooms, torn into strips
- 1 dried guajillo chili
- 3 tbsp neutral oil
- 1 white onion, finely chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 tsp dried epazote or 2 tbsp chopped cilantro
- Salt
- To serve: warm corn tortillas, lime wedges, sliced white onion, cilantro, salsa
- 01
Toast the guajillo in a dry pan 30 seconds a side, pressing it flat. Remove the stem and seeds, then grind to a coarse powder.
- 02
Heat a wide pan over high, dry. Add the mushrooms and let them sit, then stir, then sit again, until they shrink and brown and crisp at the edges, 10 to 12 minutes. This browning is the flavor. Do not rush it. Add the oil once they are well browned.
- 03
Lower to medium. Add the onion and cook until soft, 5 minutes. Add the garlic, guajillo powder, epazote, and a good pinch of salt. Cook 2 minutes more.
- 04
Taste and adjust the salt. Pile into warm tortillas with onion, cilantro, salsa, and a hard squeeze of lime.
- A side of black beans.
- A spoon of avocado.
- Cold pickled onions for tang.
Corn tortillas, not flour, warmed properly over a flame or in a dry pan. That single step is the difference between good tacos and great ones.
